The journey of Mpola Mpola – learning to embrace slowly slowly

Greetings from Dubai airport,

Wow, it really has been a long time since I wrote to you all – my last group email was as we set sail across the Atlantic ocean from Lanzarote back in December 2024 and to say a lot has happened since then would be an understatement… 

Needless to say, we made it – three generations crossed a vast deep ocean together and loved it – a very special one for the memory bank. What’s hard to put into words is all that followed – how we continued our journey through the Caribbean, to Panama and through the canal, to the Galapagos islands and across the mighty Pacific Ocean, through French Polynesia and Tonga and, just over a month ago, sailed into the Bay of Islands to complete our journey half way around the world. I had intended to create a blog (entitled ‘The Long Way Home’!) about our time on our boat, Mpola Mpola (meaning slowly slowly in Luganda), but, to be perfectly honest, when it came to it, I didn’t want to. So I didn’t. I just loved being entirely present on the boat each day, waking with the sunrise (often before the boys!), doing morning yoga up the bow, opening my eyes each day to an entirely new view, new lush tropical foliage, new beaches and new fellow cruisers anchored around us in various bays. I loved slow mornings and tropical fruit eaten in coconut bowls, glorious coffee brewed fresh each morning (thanks to my coffee machine – a wonderfully indulgent Christmas present from Nath which ensured daily delicious coffee no matter how remote our destination!), plunging over the side into the aquamarine water, snorkelling coral reefs, shipwrecks and the infamous ‘Wall of Sharks’ in the Tuamotus with the boys. Afternoons involved more swimming, reading, homemade baking, adventures ashore, beach walks and games, meeting up with other cruisers, the boys paddle boarding around the bay befriending everyone they met – and inviting them back to our boat for evening happy hour drinks! Every sunset brought with it a pause, a moment of gratitude for the day, our boat, our life, the people and our health. I went to bed each night with a smile and a bubbling sense of excitement for what the next day would hold – more blissful wanderings, refreshing plunges, seeing the world reflected in the boys’ eyes as they discovered life as it’s meant to be lived – slowly and with intention. So you see, there was no time for screens, for sitting on laptops, as little time on phones as possible – just to let our closest family and friends know we were still alive and thriving (and had, in fact made it beyond the Atlantic crossing!). 

But here I am now, at Dubai airport with a coffee and my laptop, taking a moment of stillness while the world rushes past. I am in my own world – quite literally between two worlds, having boarded my plane in Auckland, leaving behind my gorgeous boys in the loving hands of Nath and my parents, on a brief stopover before boarding my final flight to Entebbe where my Ugandan family will be waiting with open arms. And this, in this airport of eternal transience, feels, as it always has, like the perfect place to finally write again.  

It’s far beyond the scope of the time I have before my next flight to capture everything that has happened this past year and a half since we left NZ but I will try the nutshell version – the longer version, perhaps, will be a book for the future… The biggest thing that sticks with me about our year at sea was the simple joy of TIME. Time together as a family, time to do things slowly, time to reflect, time to think, time spent on watch at sea under a myriad of shooting stars contemplating the world and all its wonders, time to really truly listen to our children, time to answer their questions, to wonder together, to just be. And the best part of it all was that I never once wished time could speed up, that the pace of life could speed up. The gloriously languid slow passing of time when you are with the ones you love is the greatest gift you could ask for. The conscious act of breathing in clean, fresh, sea air, relishing the feeling of sun on salty skin and the incomparable joy of that first dive off the back of the boat each morning into the water’s sparkling embrace. Moment after moment of pure joy. 

Encompassed within the joy of having so much time was watching our boys blossom and thrive as they basked in the love of two fully present parents who had chosen to live a life less ordinary with them. Everyone always asked if we were home schooling them but we just smiled and replied ‘we are doing boat school’. Boat school consisted of basic reading and writing lessons on days when it felt right. But mostly it consisted of letting the boys paddle around the bay, exploring and discovering the world together and coming back to the boat bursting with excitement at the places, people and things they had discovered. It meant meeting people old and young from all corners of the world, forming fast, vibrant friendships and then learning to be OK with parting ways, knowing our paths may or may not cross again but being grateful for the time we shared together. Boat school was all about adventure, exploration, imagination, flow states, questioning, wondering and discovering. Meals were always a time to chat, to ask more questions, to be OK with not knowing the answers but pondering together – and always, always there was music. So many nights dinner would end with the music blaring and the four of us dancing in the cockpit under the stars, singing to the night, feeling my heart would burst with the joy of it. 

Of course, there were challenges. Jack and I struggled with seasickness at times, we experienced the brunt of ugly seas and angry winds, we dodged the relentless steam of container ships roaring out of the Panama Canal in the dark while navigating between lightning storms, Charlie’s first snorkelling expedition resulted in 26 sea urchin spikes being embedded in his little foot and us hobbling from clinic to clinic in the BVIs to try and fix him (note for future – the spikes just make their way out so don’t bother with the clinic!). Nath had several trips back to NZ to work for Team NZ, leaving the boys and I alone in various locations – including three weeks in a marina in Panama where the boys and I were literally in tears of despair at times due to the oppressive, relentless heat – Charlie aptly described it with sweat rolling down his cheeks: ‘Mama, I feel like my brain is going to explode.’ But these moments were far, far outweighed by the pinch-yourself ones – like going for a jungle walk next to that very same marina where we watched howler monkeys swinging through the trees overhead and followed trails of ‘caravan ants’ marching along old WWII railway sleepers into the dense foliage. There are so many spectacular memories embedded into our minds forever. 

And now, having settled back in to the warm embrace of our incredible community in Devonport, it’s time for me to go back to my Ugandan home. The rather mammoth task of attempting to visit 112 sponsor students lies before me but I feel if there’s one thing I have taken from boat life, it’s that rushing will not make things easier and that just doing what we can do in the time we have – whilst enjoying the journey – is the best way. So I sit with a smile, the faces of all those waiting for me rolling through my mind, as I look forward to bringing the peace of my sailing soul with me to the red earth of the village. I know it will be well received there – it’s how everyone in the village already lives, it just took me sailing across the world to be able to realise it for myself. 

Sending much love and light to you all,

Em xoxoxo

And rain will make the tomatoes grow

Time in Uganda is a funny thing. While a single day can seem to span for a week with so much happening and so much to get your head around, somehow a week can pass in a day, leaving you wishing there was more time. This time two weeks ago I was arriving in the village; in just one week I will be on a plane home. I wish there was more time but I am ever grateful for my annual visits, especially this one which made me realise with newfound intensity just how much I value my time in Uganda.

Last Sunday was KAASO’s Speech Day which was a huge celebration marking the end of the school year, combined with the graduation of the gorgeous nursery children who are now promoted to Primary One.

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It was a moving day, with children of all ages performing before their parents and guardians, singing, dancing, drumming, moving and shaking. I was so proud watching them all, those I first met almost six years ago, now all grown up. Brenda did an incredible job of her performance and received a huge reception from the crowd.

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Dominic gave a heartfelt speech thanking me for all I had done for KAASO and I was humbled by the gratitude and kindness that flooded my way from everyone I met. I still marvel at how far this school has come over the past few years and how lucky I feel to have stumbled across this very special little corner of the world, nestled in a tiny village amidst banana palms and mango trees.

Speech Day ended with a disco which saw people from 3 to 93 up dancing in the school’s front courtyard. We were hugely fortunate that the rains held off as we’re in the midst of the rainy season and the previous day had seen the most torrential downpour I’ve ever experience in Uganda with pounding rains turning dust to mud, flowing in rivers through the school for hours. I can’t help but smile as I write, as the thumping music from a nearby bar pounds out “I bless the rains down in Africa.”

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In the midst of the dancing, the school year officially ended and the children started to flood out of the school gates with their mattresses, metal suitcases and worldly belongings on their heads. I tried to farewell everyone but it was overwhelming trying to take in the mass exodus of over 500 children who marched like ants out the school gates, spreading out across the country for the holidays with parents, grandparents and distant relatives.

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The consolation of all these departing children is the return of the sponsor children and every day it seems I am met with another flying hug from a newly returned secondary student. The children I met in 2009 are now 18 and 19-year olds who dwarf me and have matured into a bunch of incredible young adults. I went to Masaka on Friday to pick up Henry and David from school and beamed with pride as these two handsome young men in crisp white shirts and ties showed me around their school, grinning as they explained their responsibility to set an example for the younger children as they are now the ‘elders’ and role models of the school – next year is their last year of secondary school before they will head out into the world.

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It makes me so immensely proud to see all these grown up students back at KAASO, helping around the school and guiding and inspiring the younger children. I have been meeting with each of the sponsor students, catching up on their year, hearing of their hopes and dreams and what they hope to become given the incredible boost they have had by being sponsored through secondary school. I listen to their dreams of becoming doctors, vets, pharmacists, nurses, businessmen… Most importantly, what has impressed me this time is that these students have grasped the concept that their sponsorships are not everlasting but amazing head starts in life which they must not take for granted. Those that are approaching the end of their studies are mapping out their next paths, working out how they can cultivate gardens and set up poultry projects and get jobs to help support themselves and their families and fund the next stages of their lives. It has been so heartening to meet with them all and to feel the overflowing gratitude towards their sponsors that pours from each and every one. I started this project five years ago, having no idea where it would lead, never imagining I would now have over 20 children being given the simplest gift of all, one we so often take for granted – an education.

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While sitting with one of the sponsor students last week, a new idea was born, one I hope will set a precedent and be the start of something truly incredible. He was explaining to me that he wanted to create his own tomato garden in the holidays which he could harvest before going back to school in early March. He lost both of his parents and in the holidays stays with his grandmother not far from KAASO in her small mud-brick hut where she takes care of half a dozen other orphaned grandchildren. He explained to me that his grandmother had a plot of land she was willing to give him for the project, all he lacked was the initial capital to get his tomatoes in the ground. Sitting together on the floor of my room, I listened intently as this 18-year old boy carefully explained the process of creating a tomato garden, the materials required and the costs involved. I was well and truly impressed. I gave him a blank sheet of paper and told him that if he could come back to me with a detailed budget and plan as to how he would achieve his goal, I would lend him the money. He looked at me in shock, clarified that I was serious, thanked me profusely and disappeared. Two hours later, he was back, budget in hand. Under the supervision of Teacher Sarah, the project is now underway and it’s something I hope will be the first of many such student-driven initiatives. It’s incredible what can be achieved with a whole lot of determination and a little bit of capital. He has been busy slashing the land with a machete and purchasing seedlings and manure and when I went to visit the land one evening he just smiled at me and said, “Madame Emma, thank you so much. Really, I am appreciating so much.” I can’t wait for the first bite of juicy tomato when I return next year.

With another volunteer at KAASO and a couple of others we picked up along the way, I ventured west to Queen Elizabeth park. I had never been to the Western Region and was amazed at the contrast in scenery. While Kabira overflows with green banana palms, fertile crops and striking red earth, Queen Elizabeth was a dry savannah with the spectacular Mt Rwenzori rising in the background, lakes George and Edward glistening in the sun and on the distant horizon, the hazy mountains of the Democratic Republic of Congo. We followed packs of lions, were chased by territorial bull elephants, trekked chimpanzees through the rainforest and dined in the light of paraffin lanterns under the stars. It was amazing to see another part of Uganda and the vast diversity of this country, smaller than New Zealand in landmass but with a population almost 10 times our 4 million people.

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I travelled to Kampala yesterday, bumping into Kim along the way and we caught up on the progress of her malnutrition ward and the gardens she uses to feed her young patients during the crowded bus trip north. Dominic met me off the bus and together we met with solar companies in Kampala. Tomorrow morning I will travel alongside a solar technician back to the village as co-pilot in the truck of Solar Energy for Africa, hopefully one step closer to getting the solar system sorted. I had a lovely to catch up with John, a Kiwi friend who moved here in 2009, and his gorgeous two-year old daughter and have enjoyed staying with my dear friends Sonia and Paul, who I first met in 2009. AFRIpads, their business of washable sanitary pads has gone from strength to strength and is now helping girls not only in Uganda but in refugee camps and disaster areas around the world to cope with their monthly periods.

Every time I come to Uganda, I learn more and more about this country, its people, culture and life in the village. It’s a world of contrasts, a world that is deafening and peaceful, frantic and slow, contradictory and yet somehow, somehow, things make sense.

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Sunrise over sea, snorkelling with lions & Maasai hosts

Life really has been a beach of late. We arrived in Zanzibar intending to stay five days; two weeks later we finally dragged ourselves away. It is an island that can quite simply be described as paradise and I loved every minute of our white sand, palm fringed, tropical breeze existence. After wandering the streets of Stone Town, we made our way to the east coast to a beach called Matemwe where the waves crashed on the outer coral reef and the sand was so white it was like talcum powder. We met up with new-found friends from our safari and headed out on a dug-out canoe to go snorkelling on the reef. The colours were spectacular, the water so turquoise it was almost luminous.

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We were joined by a couple of English friends we’d picked up along the way for Kirsty’s final night – a giant punch party complete with tropical juices and local gin. The tiny restaurant that was hosting us soon cleared out as we moved back the tables and danced to the ‘Jambo Jambo’ CD Kirsty had bought in Dar. We danced and drank our punch under the stars and it was a wonderful farewell to an amazing friend. We tearfully put Kirsty on the ferry the next day, trying to get our heads around the fact that the three musketeers were now down to two.

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More time in paradise was urgently needed.

We spent most of our time at a spectacular beach further down the coast called Paje – aka Paradise. I’m not sure it means that but it should. I’ve never been anywhere so breathtaking and lying under palm fringed umbrellas on the beach having massages from local women and sipping gin and tonics with the sweetest Zanzibari limes I’ve ever tasted was heaven. I managed to find a guitar from the local Rasta guys and sat on the beach writing a song as the local children came and danced before me, swaying in the sand. I couldn’t help but smile.

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Crossing borders & disco dancing

Another scorching day in the town of Kyotera where children still run down the street chasing us with cries of muzungu! I don’t think I will ever again feel so famous as I do in Uganda. It’s funny that after almost a month here we feel as if we are beginning to blend in, yet every time we venture outside the grounds of KAASO we are reminded of how much we stick out, the colour of our skin blinding white in contrast to these faces that live under the scorching African sun.

The last few days have been yet another whirlwind adventure – the story of my life currently. Dominic took us to the government school that he runs down near the Tanzanian border. It was an eye-opener to say the least. All the time we have been here we have been taking our perception of ‘norms’ from KAASO, overwhelming though they may be. Kamuganja School was another story. Located in the middle of nowhere, it serves a community that largely consists of Rwanda cattle herders that fled their homes during the genocide of 1994. The people carry the scars of unspeakable tragedy and the children are understandably affected. The families are scattered far and wide around the surrounding area and to get to school, some children must walk over two hours and be ferried across a river, an offshoot of Lake Victoria, by boat if they can find one. There were less than 100 students here when Dominic took over as headmaster two years ago; now the school roll is over 300. The community is extremely poor and although being a government school there are no school fees, there is no provision for such things as uniforms, resources or even lunch. Most families cannot afford even to pay for the children’s lunch which consists of one cup of watery porridge to sustain them for the day. For some, this may be the day’s food.

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So we arrived at Kamuganja to be met by 300 faces, half thrilled, half terrified who clapped and sang for us as we bumped our way along the dirt road. Dominic stopped the car for us to get out and walk amongst them into the school grounds. The red earth felt like a red carpet. They were so genuinely grateful to simply have us there and it was overwhelming to say the least. Continue reading

So let the journey begin

It’s 2am at Dubai airport and this place resembles Oxford St at rush hour. I never knew there were so many people racing around in the middle of the night. I’m in no hurry –  I have a good 8 hours to kill before my next flight and, having dreamed of Africa for so long now, there’s no rush.

So this marks the start of the greatest adventure yet. I will be spending the next 6 months volunteering at a school for orphans in Uganda. Along with my friend Cherie and her friend Kirsty (who I’m yet to meet), I will be living in the village of Kabira in the Rakai District of Uganda, just south of the equator near the shores of Lake Victoria – a good 5 hour drive from the capital, Kampala. There are over 500 children at the school; the area was one of the worst hit by the AIDS epidemic which continues to rage through Africa. I don’t expect to be able to change the world, but perhaps over the next 6 months I will be able to make a difference to the lives of the children I am living with – and no doubt learn more from them than I am currently able to comprehend.

This is it – stepping off into the unknown in a way more dramatic than I have ever done before but I feel as ready as I can possibly be and hope that by keeping an open heart, open mind and living with open eyes, I will allow the experience that is Africa to become a part of me. I don’t want to look back on life wishing I had done something I never did and it’s all too easy to just talk about things without backing up words with action. So here I go.

The next time I step outside the airport will be in Entebbe, where the three of us will be picked up by Dominic, the director of the school, and taken to Kampala for the night. The following day we will begin our long trip south to Kabira. There is no internet in the village and the nearest internet cafe, a half hour boda boda(motorcycle taxi) ride away, burnt down a few weeks ago. However, I will endeavour to keep in touch as best I can, to share stories, observations, experiences and no doubt heartbreaks and inspirations too.

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